Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
